Walking Across America:
Part II
On February 20th, 2010, I started walking. From the Santa Monica Pier in California all the way to Midland, Texas, I walked. No rides, just walking. When it became too hot to walk, I left Texas, by bus, to spend the summer elsewhere. I traveled to 21 states in those couple of months. Not walking, of course.
Now it’s September, and the air is much cooler. Now I begin walking again. I’ll walk until I get to Jacksonville, Florida.
People ask me all the time why I’m doing this. Well, I suppose there are a lot of reasons… I am walking because I want to inspire people. I like walking, and I think people should try it more often, instead of driving past all there is to see. I want others to try adventuring, too.
I’m walking because I feel that you must, at least once in your life, try to do something you’re not certain you can do. I’m doing something bigger than myself. I want to learn to handle anything, and with grace--to be humbled. And I hope this story changes the life of at least one person in the world.
I’m walking because I feel that you must, at least once in your life, try to do something you’re not certain you can do. I’m doing something bigger than myself. I want to learn to handle anything, and with grace--to be humbled. And I hope this story changes the life of at least one person in the world.
Welcome to the Walk Across America.
Part II.
Now that I’ve made my grand introduction, read on for some unexpected disappointment…
9/17/10
Getting back to Midland wasn’t as easy as I expected, since city the bus I was told about did not exist.I’ve long since learned, though, to deal with things that are supposed to be there but don’t exist. I had to take a Greyhound, which is scarcely an opportunity to jump at. A 3 hour wait for a 20 mile ride for 11 dollars. Pfff...What a day it is already. I met a little girl whose mom was too busy on the phone to keep her entertained, so I showed her my hat, my glasses, my camera…She seemed never to tire, and it helped me pass the time more quickly.
When I arrived in Midland, it looked like rain, and it was now too late in the day to begin such a long walk. I spent the last of my money on a hotel room in the place I stayed my last night in Texas, only a couple rooms down this time. Howard, the Korean owner who tells me I wouldn’t even be able to pronounce his real name, so what’s the point, again gives me a deal on a room, happily accommodating me for the little money I have on hand. I hope someday I will come and visit him, and that he will tell me his real name, even if I can’t say it right. I’ll always remember what a nice man he is. Hotels are a true, and appreciated luxury, best enjoyed while watching movies and eating unhealthy snacks, after a long, hot bath.Never again will I take for granted sleeping in a bed and having a bath.
A view of the sky from the balcony tonight, and on my last night in Midland:
9/18/10
Looking out at the green expanse of Texas, I believe it could go on forever. The terrain has just begun to roll, hinting me forward into the hill country.
There’s still a lot of tall, dead grass around, but I’m beginning to see trees! Coming out of Midland, where as far as the eye can see abounds asphalt and gargantuan Walmarts, this highway is a welcome change of pace. Being away from the interstate is always refreshing. Marching down the road to the tune of Psycho Killer by the Talking Heads, I feel this day has been waiting for me a long time. I own this road! And I'm going to walk crazy fast today!
BUT…After about 16 miles my body feels drained. I mean, literally, after sitting, it’s impossible to lift my legs except by physically picking them up with my hands. My back is in spasm from the water I have to carry for 3 days of survival. I feel, now, that the tables have turned, and that the day has in fact owned me. And I’m still 21 miles away from Garden City! I haven’t even mentioned the condition of my feet. Strangely enough, I haven’t felt hungry all day. I ate half of a veggie patty at about noon, and a little packet of miso soup with a handful of trail mix on the side. I suppose it isn’t really that strange, I usually don’t eat on walking days but a few handfuls here and there, or nothing at all until the end of the day. I’m so desperate to lose some of my pack weight that I’ve begun picking out the almonds and cranberries in my trail mix, because they are the heaviest. At the halfway point, a little dog started following me. She came out of the only yard in Sprayberry, which is also the only thing in Sprayberry, barking ferociously as I walked by. As I scoped out a stroller (!!) I spotted on the side of the road about a mile later, she snuck up from behind, throwing herself in the tall grass, belly-up for approval. She rolled around rather dramatically for several minutes until I finally gave her a pat on the side. That pretty much sealed the deal for her.
I reluctantly backtracked to put her in the yard. She didn’t stay, and I had to walk her back twice more until I was confident that her interest in me had waned. But sure enough, more than a mile down the road this time, there she was, creeping up behind me and again flopping around in the weeds. It seemed to me that if she was willing to walk so far away from home, she must really want to get away. She acted much like a dog that’s been abused, ducking sharply at the slightest motion toward her, and she had abrasions that concerned me as well. Poor thing, what was I to do? Rather than backtrack yet again, I decided to find a place to stay, half hoping that she’d wander back home at some point during the night.
9/19/10
That dog stayed with me all night. I’m vaguely worried I might smell like pee, because she did, and she wanted to be a little spoon all night. I gave up trying to push her away, because she just didn’t listen. All night she slept half next to me, half on top of me. And, after all, it did get pretty misty, she must have been cold. I thought it would be great to have a guard dog, but she initially failed me on that front, sleeping right through the yipping coyotes in nearby bushes. I stood up and scared them off. Sensing that I was disappointed in her guard dog skills, she did her best to prove herself by barking at sleepless cows and oil drills creaking their loneliness into empty fields. By morning I was immensely troubled thinking of what to do with her, and hadn’t slept much for worrying about it. Naturally, she followed me down the road, uncomplainingly though she’d had little food and no water. I gave her the better portion of my trail mix, which she scarfed down like I’ve never seen a dog eat nuts, and all of my peanut butter. She had a real difficulty staying on the shoulder, though, and almost caused a couple accidents by running out into the highway. I tried to flag down several cars, but nobody stopped, even when I made a “Call 911” sign. It’s quite disconcerting that people are so afraid of one another, so much so as to leave somebody with a baby stroller in an apparent state of emergency on the side of the highway for fear of even talking to them. After a very long while, somebody stopped and called 911, and an officer arrived to take the dog and either return her or find her a new home. It makes me sad, and I wonder what did happen to her. I hope I did the right thing; She made such a good companion, but it was a very unsafe place for her to be. I couldn’t have kept enough food or water for her either, it just seemed all around irresponsible to try and keep her. The day pressed on with a mixture of guilt and worry, and I missed my little doggie.
I’ve had a stressful day and have been doing a lot of thinking about the walk. I realize now that I had a lot of fear and reservation about the second half of it, but didn’t want to admit it to myself. My feet never did stop hurting all summer. Right now my body is in such pain I don’t know how I could walk another 2 day stretch to the next town, and that’s all it is for the next 150 miles. I’ve watched too many murder movies taking place in Texas these past couple of weeks. I miss Sasha. I feel at times my heart just isn’t in it anymore. Right now is one of those times. I’m throwing in the towel! Are you disappointed yet? I am…
SO…
I got a ride the last 3 miles to Garden City, sure that my legs were going to fall right off. A group of twenty-somethings who could have been from San Francisco, except that they were driving a hummer, turned around on the highway and backtracked to Garden City, just because they felt they needed to help. In this moment my faith in humanity was boosted, after spending the whole day angry at the world for every passing car. Something in my heart just told me I had to get in that car. From the rear-view mirror hung a rainbow flag, and the girl in the passenger seat had some blue in her hair, like me. It was a very brief ride, and they had more questions than we had time to talk; I answered dutifully, until I was interrupted by more questions. I had a good time, but was a little disoriented when I got out of the truck in Garden City. The only place in town was closed, but I quickly drew attention to myself, being the only person not in a vehicle in the whole town. I got a ride offer immediately, to Sterling City, feeling guilty as the miles flew by underneath me, but not feeling them with my feet.
Sterling City is what you’d call a really “down home” town. In fact, I’m told by a local, the bank closes whenever a resident passes away. Almost everything is locally owned except for maybe the Dairy Queen, blech; They have a very little library and a little picnic area with a golf course! Walking down the neighborhoods, I’m amazed at the amount of grass and trees here. I could live somewhere like this, except that it’s in Texas. I’ve decided to stay here a day, utilize the library, and try to get a ride to San Angelo tomorrow. From there I’d like to hitch to Fredericksburg and walk to Austin.It gets more dense around there, spotted with little towns until Houston. I may walk further, but for now my feet say commit only to Houston and decide then.
My feelings range from disappointment and guilt to relief, and a plethora of confusions in between. I’d been wrestling with the idea all day, thinking of the utter failure I’d feel if I gave up walking after only 2 days; After all, Austin is only 350 miles away, which is, at this point, a walk in the park. But thinking forward on it, envisioning every day in this searing pain, I couldn’t imagine any experience more like hell. My arches have collapsed, and I can think of nothing more painful to the feet. I feel I’m disappointing a lot of people by throwing in the proverbial towel, but I know my supporters have been concerned about my health and well-being all the while as well, and on some level I’m sure they understand my decision. It’s not entirely quits, I just cannot commit to walking every single mile anymore. My heart isn’t in it if ultimately it comes down to sacrificing my well-being just to prove a point.
9/20/10
I’ve just been given a ball bearing bracelet. It doubles as a weapon, so I’m told. I slept at the courthouse last night, watching barn owls terrorize trees full of birds. It was far too early when people arrived to work, or so I thought. So, hazily, I rose from the dirt and bushes and crossed the dead, dark street to City Cafe.
At about 7:30 the sun still wasn’t up. I ordered a coffee and was offered breakfast; I hesitated.
“You’re a vegetarian, aren’t you? I could tell when I saw you walking around yesterday.” I’ve been getting that a lot lately. I guess in Texas you stick out like a sore thumb being from California, and I suppose most people assume you’re either gay or vegetarian, if not both. The ladies in charge gave me breakfast on the house--hash browns with green peppers and onion, and an English muffin with home-made peach jam. Denise told me, unflinchingly, of her past as a stripper, and how she’d had her windows broken in once for hiring a gay cook. Sadly, the latter part doesn’t surprise me. She let me take a shower at a room she rents out to travelers, and sent me on my way with a care package of veggie foods. Tomatoes, carrots and celery, bulgur, strawberry jam she made herself, pita bread, pinto beans, and Spanish rice! Thanks, Mom!
Hitching out of Sterling was pretty easy; I was trying to get to San Angelo, but decided to get all the way to Fredericksburg because the offer was on the table. That way all the long stretches are out of the way, and I can walk all the way to Florida with no worries! The voyage was one I know I’ll hold for the rest of my life in fond recollection. At first, Bryan and his boss talked mostly to each other while I dozed in and out in the back seat. But once the boss got dropped off, Bryan was full of questions just like anybody else. Perhaps what was so fascinating about Bryan, while I can’t imagine having more than 100 dollars at a time, is that he couldn’t imagine not having several millions. By his demeanor, his way of addressing other people in a down to earth way, you would never know that this man had enough money to buy a small country. Prosperous from an inheritance of big oil stock success, Bryan spends his time working hard as a general contractor. With a couple hundred employees and several enormous projects on his plate, he has a life that doesn’t offer much opportunity for the good old camping out, or walking long distances. He tells me, like maybe a handful of people on this trip have, that he has learned more from me in such a short time than probably anybody he’s met. And he sent me off with 6 bags of trail mix, and the ringing gratitude I have for the hour we spent driving through the hills. I arrived in Fredericksburg with no idea what to do, so I went to a couple of churches in hopes they might let me camp in their yards, since it was expected to rain pretty ferociously. No luck. But the police station was a little more generous, they put me up in a hotel, and again I feel fancy!
9/21/10
Well, it was my day to sleep in, but the “guests” in the adjoining room woke me up at 5:30. Even the budget hotel in this town is pretty snazzy. There were cafe tables outside in a little grassy area, and I got to talk to Sasha on the phone last night.
The forecast has been predicting rain, but so far I couldn’t have envisioned a better weather scheme myself. Just a little sprinkle that makes shimmer all that is green, and what could one find to complain about in that?
A stroll around town finds me at the National Museum of the Pacific War, below
And later, the market square downtown.
In Fredericksburg, this is where you go to the optometrist, and that is where you go to the urologist. I would be at some doctor or other all the time if I lived here. I would develop all kinds of bodily dysfunctions just so I could hang out in the lobbies of places like this.
Fortunately though, I don’t have to become a hypochondriac to find a nice place to waste the day away, behind my journal scribbling away grand epiphanies…I stumbled upon a great coffee shop, undaunted by the hours of philosophical debate I was sure I’d encounter behind its doors. My Yelp review of this place begins like this:
“OK, first of all, I am a seasoned traveler. I am what you might call a coffee snob, accustomed to the finest in Seattle, Portland, Boston, New York, etc. Now Texas, I will say, is better known for its cow than it is its coffee. Granted, I am thoroughly impressed, not only by the coffee and the ambiance, but also with the impossibly open-minded and intelligent discourse I encountered at GGC. It is certainly a Christian coffee shop, but as I do not personally identify as such, I will say that I felt most comfortable and engaged in worthwhile dialogue, and not preached-at in the least. I was welcomed with no questions asked, and that's how I like it. “ 
After a sufficient session of nerding out on the blog and conversing with Andy, the owner, he offered me probably the coolest place I have stayed on this whole trip. Another point for humanity!
With a view like this, I found less and less reason to leave my room each day. I’ve spent hours of the day talking with Andy, and I find it refreshing that I can get along so well and have such intelligent conversations with somebody of many different views than my own. But, we agree on a lot of things, too. I have felt so much at home here, thanks to Andy, and I have all the gratitude in the world for him. I’m hoping I get to visit Fredericksburg again soon.
The cows outside sound like zombies. Zombies that don’t like rain.
While I walk around town, I think of things that might seem strange to other people; But actually, I think of everyday things, just like everyone, fleeting, sometimes unintelligible fragments of thoughts. Even though my life isn’t as “everyday” as most people might think, I’m thinking about my health today, and how I need to eat in a way that better suits it; I’m thinking about diabetes and that it wreaks havoc on my family. I’m thinking about cancer, and how it has taken the lives of many relatives. And I’m worried about the sweet tooth that I can’t seem to curb, despite my best wishes to be in great health. It puts a little damper on my day, as I chomp down on a cookie I couldn’t resist buying while out getting vegetables. Anyway…Oh look, an antler store…
9/25/10
Perhaps it was the lingering dread of leaving my nice warm bed for nights in the open with the possibility of thunderstorms, but I got a super late start leaving Fredericksburg. In a burst of creativity mixed with laziness I created a smoothie out of most of the food I didn’t want to carry. 6 tangerines, a cup of soymilk, raspberries, an apple, Special K cereal, and last night’s coffee that I didn’t have the heart to throw away. It wasn’t quite as gross as it sounds, but not very marketable either. I rolled over roads through the countryside, stopping to pick up dead butterflies that wouldn’t quite make the backpack commute to be turned into some art project or other. My first porcupine and armadillo sightings in life were dead on the side of the road. I’ve seen a lot of firsts out here in terms of wildlife—but they’ve all been dead. This part of Texas even just smells like dead. Just beyond Wildflower restaurant there was a horrific accident. It’s when I have to see things like this that I become very concerned about my safety on the side of the road, but also very grateful for not being in the wrong place at the wrong time. Like when a semi blew off the road a half a mile in front of me or when a truck hit the car in front of it on my last day walking. Today though, being spared injury was of no comfort for what I had seen. A head on collision between an SUV and a small car, the SUV flipped over on its side and the small car obliterated on the other side of the highway. The accident was fatal, and I’ll leave it to common sense for you to figure that one out. The line of cars backed up stretched on for a couple miles, and I had to play reporter to all the people lined up wanting to know what happened. It made great publicity for the walk, and I was feeling chipper, not finding out until later that somebody died in the scene I just passed.
I was sitting outside of the gas station picking up the wifi from an RV park when a couple of guys in a truck rolled up to see what I was doing.I turned around so they could read my backpack, and in a gesture of approval they offered to take me out to dinner, and I accepted. I hopped into the truck, alongside a huge gun, (most people in Texas have huge trucks and huge guns) and we barreled down the road toward one of the two cafes in town. I had the vegetarian option, which in Texas means iceberg lettuce and a sorry tomato, diced. But it was nice to eat, and to enjoy the company of new friends. The night flew past us, and before we knew it 11pm was upon us. Right before bed, I spotted the infamous praying mantis of Chism’s ceiling, munching on some unfortunate soul.
Chism stayed at his family’s ranch home, leaving me with his place all to myself. Now, in California, most of us could never conceive of leaving a complete stranger in our home, with wallet out on desk and cameras and computers laying around. But here, what’s inconceivable is somebody wanting to rob you. It just isn’t a proper thing to do. Thank goodness for Small Town America!
9/26/10.
Suddenly I remember why I hate walking on Sundays in Texas. Nothing is ever open! Getting to Johnson city at the end of a 16 mile walk would leave me, today, with the prospect of breaking camp mid-day without any food or water for the rest of it. It was this insight that aided Chism in convincing me to take the day off, and he offered to let me spend it with him doing ranch work in several nearby towns. With the truck horn as our Pavlovian bell, we plowed through the fields of Brady and wherever else we were, and cows came running in anticipation of being fed. They came from all directions, often running right toward the oncoming truck, looking just about as excited as cows can look.
It’s rarely that I am able to get so close to these not-so- little cuties! I had a wonderful day in the pasture, with Henry the dog on my lap in the truck. At some point in the day Chism got something in his eye that wouldn’t get out. In an effort to help, I found myself peering into a pretty, bright blue iris, heavily contrasted by the pool of red it was swimming in. But no such luck on the helping front, it turned out to be an ulcerated cornea. Ouch! Aside from this kink in the day, it was a good one, and I was sad to part with such good company at the end of the day. But Chism promises me a visit in Portland next year, and with that, a baby Henry.
9/27/10
There’s a smell in the air, long gone from my life but still familiar; at the rest stop just beyond Stonewall the lawn is being mowed. Walking seems to be going by pretty fast today.
Now in Hye, I’ve covered 6 miles in what feels like less than an hour. I know well enough, though, that it’s been closer to two hours, and despite the mounds of energy I have today, my feet are still hurting pretty badly. Hye can’t really be called a town; The only two storefronts on the main drag, which is the highway itself, are Madali creative works and the post office/antique store. I mailed off a postcard and continued without taking a break. I made it to Johnson city with bent ankles, after enduring a 15 mile trek of slanted road shoulder. So, essentially, I walked on my ankles the whole time. Strolling into what Johnson City calls its downtown, I was troubled not to find a single business that appeared open. What happened to this place? Well, there went my plan to grab a snack or some coffee. I hadn’t eaten anything all day, but when I’m walking that’s kind of typical. I was content to just pass out on the lawn in front of the courthouse when a man in a truck approached me with the usual “Are you really walking across America?” The wonderful couple days that followed can only be attributed to an amount of curiosity and graciousness only a fellow walker-across-the-country could muster. After a quick call to his wife, Jason invited me to stay the evening at their new home in the countryside, with their two beautiful children, who, he warned me, have lots and lots of energy. I couldn’t have imagined a more perfect getaway, so we were on our way.
9/28/10
I’m watching from the window a small bird, maybe a barn swallow, hover just beneath the porch ceiling, and then catch a big bug. The sun is barely up, but the birds are already screaming their joy to the universe for being alive, as usual. The mosquito bite on my lip screams something to the universe, too. We enjoyed a nice morning stroll by the creek, crossing through a grove of cypress trees very different from those in California. Little frogs make for themselves a haven here, basking in the shallow water that flows over the road, and hopping out of the way only at the last possible moment.
I spent a good part of the morning holding Ella, the littlest of the family. As I told Julien how excited I was to have my first child, Ella spit up all over my leg, as if on cue, smiling abundantly.
The sunshine on my legs as I rock in the porch swing gives a warmth so gentle and unlike the midday sun I’m used to while out walking in Texas. What a most perfect day, in every possible sense of the word! I’m so very glad I decided to take a day off and enjoy the company of a family that’s come to feel like my own. Harry the cat enjoys the sun, too.
Jason and I pored over the photos from his walk, fondly recalling people who helped on the way and commiserating about slanted roads and icy nights. Now more than 10 years ago, Jason began his own pedestrian journey from San Diego to Maine; Maybe he decided at that point that he hadn’t accomplished quite enough, so he paddled on a canoe he built himself back to Texas. I feel like I can complete my walk now.
Spending time here has uncovered feelings of great anticipation and excitement about starting my own family. Just a year ago, you’d never imagine me saying that I wanted to have children—ever. I really had no idea that this drive was in me, but I suppose there is a sense of security and permanence when you find the person you want to marry.
We went to visit Jason’s parents, and the rest of his family, in Marble Falls. I have to say, they give my family a run for their money. As we sat on the couches and chairs, myself answering his mom’s questions about the walk, one by one, people began to pile into the house, and soon the high ceilings gave opportunity to a bedlam of excited voices. I wasn’t able to convince everybody to get in the photo, but there were about 5 more people around. I could just imagine what Thanksgiving is like around here. They sent me off with batteries for my camera, and lots of well wishes, of course.
Speaking of excitement, Sasha had been emailing me all week about special surprises in a care package he’d be sending to Austin. As it turns out, I have been dilly-dallying, killing time to postpone getting to Austin. When he found this out, he pestered me about it a bit, which made no sense to me, and then had to ruin the surprise that he’s coming to meet me there! So now that I’ve lost two days of walking to sitting around and enjoying myself, I have to double my mileage for two days, making for a 50 mile stretch in a couple days. Yikes! But I don’t mind, I’d walk to the end of the earth for that man.
9/29/10
Ok… I need a real morale booster. Just yesterday Jason and I had an extensive conversation about mis-posted mileage signs, and how much they ruin your life when you’re anxious to get somewhere. This morning, already having to double the miles I planned for today, I find myself STILL 43 miles from Austin, even though I have already walked 8 miles beyond the sign that posted 47 miles to Austin. Somehow, that doesn’t work out, but I suppose sign-makers aren’t always the best mathematicians. So now I find myself on the side of the road, unsure whether Dripping Springs is really more than 24 miles from where I started, or if the discrepancy lies in the miles between it and Austin. It’s been months since I’ve done a day over 20, and 24 is already quite a commitment. Who knows now, it may be 27 or 28, maybe its 30! Who knows? Oh well, I’ve come to expect that no two maps will tell you the same thing. I will plan for 24, and if I have to hitch the last couple miles into town for more than that, I will. There is no way I can make it in time to meet Sasha otherwise.
It’s the end of the day and I’m in Austin. Not surprisingly, all the mileage signs were wrong. And this has been one of the worst highways I could imagine walking. Too many times terrified for my life I ran the span of long bridges, facing fast traffic, with no shoulder and nothing on the other side of the guard rail. I don’t know how many times I nearly had a heart attack today, but enough that I decided walking further would be too much of a risk to my life. About 12 miles before Dripping Springs I was able to catch a ride to Austin, putting behind me the last stretch between Midland and Florida that would be more than 20 miles. When we got into town, Cody persuaded me that I should let him buy me a tent, but we couldn’t find one for a single person. I settled on lunch, but he had to run so I ate solo. And I proceeded to lose his business card somewhere! So, Cody, if you ever read this, send me your contact info!!
The first thing I encountered in Austin, after the cafe, was this strange little half a block dirt path behind Zilker Park, in the neighborhood where I’d be staying. I thought it would be nice to camp here, but within 5 minutes I was covered in mosquito bites. Nevermind!
When I arrived at the home of Brad, Sasha’s best friend, I was greeted first by his enormous and hyperactive yellow lab, Brody. Brad invited me in, once the risk of being knocked over was significantly diminished, and offered me a Lone Star, the crappy beer that Texans are so proud to drink. Soon, though, I was sipping some of the beers that Brad himself made, and we debated about the taste of one particularly savory beer, and whether it could be called brothy, even. Despite the description, it was actually quite good, worthy of entering a contest, no doubt. We mused about black holes and beer, and weird things in Texas like the Wink Sink. Brad is the kind of guy that you just can’t not like, and in fact he’s going to be the best man in our wedding. I look forward to having him in our lives, he makes me laugh. It was a good first night in Austin, I felt like I had an old friend. And when it was time to go to bed I fell into the sleep of one who anticipates something wonderful in the morning, like Christmas presents—that is to say, I wanted to sleep the night away but couldn’t find rest for all the excitement in my brain. And Mona the cat made me sneeze.
So I just sat up and read A Brief History of Time by Stephen Hawking. More thoughts on black holes ensued.
9/30/10
It must have been 6 this morning when Brody went crazy, nearly putting holes in the walls with his log of a tail. There was Sasha, tall and handsome, but the only dark being that under his eyes. Now I know I have the best and most loving fiancé in the world, to surprise me in Austin when we before ruled the trip out as impossible. After another all night drive, he was ready to pass out just about when I was ready to wake up. Oh, this is the life of two people in different cities with completely different lives; though I was too awake to relax and he too tired to talk, we lay in bed together and I pretended that the night had passed in his sleeping company. But I got up after not too long. I sat at a nearby coffee shop for a while, hoping he might get up to join me, but his was the sleep of the dead. 11:30 rolled by and I dragged him out of bed to find some food for us to eat lunch. We tried to watch a movie but all the odds were against us, for some reason. When Brad came home we made our extra special pasta with home-made sauce with vegetables and fake chicken. Finishing the book I was reading helped me fall into a good, deep sleep, hopeful for a day of fun tomorrow.
10/02/10
We spent the morning lounging in the grass on the capitol with Bootlyg. It felt much like when you live somewhere and have a favorite park that you go to every day. Sasha’s parents arrived in the early afternoon from Houston. We went to the dog park, and later to perhaps the best dinner I’ve had since leaving California, at an Indian restaurant so dimly lit that we had to u-turn on the highway several times for missing it. A good old meet the parents dinner, I’d say it went pretty well. I wish they could have stayed in Austin longer, but I’m sure there will be lots to do when we meet in Houston to visit them.
10/03/10
Sasha’s parents took us to Zilker park to let the doggies run around, though we spent most of our time there looking for the leash-free area, and shortly thereafter we got kicked out of the fenced in area we moved barriers to get into. We had lunch of veggie burgers on South Congress, and then they left for Houston. They laid down the offer to stay at their house if I got to Houston before they were back from London, and I am so looking forward to spending time with them there! After they left, we made the most of our last night in luxury by ordering some Chinese food, like real indoor-dwellers do, watching scary movies all the while.
10/04/10
We woke up to our last morning in the hotel, reluctant to have to leave. I enjoyed one final morning of trouncing about town without the weight of my backpack. Sasha left today,after a nice full day of doing nothing in particular, and, of course, drinking coffee.
It’s only been an hour in his absence and I already miss him as much as I had anticipated him getting here only a few days ago.
I decided to just make way for my host’s house when I met Ken. It just so happened that Ken works for Austin’s independent radio station, KOOP, and also that he was on his way to do a show when we coincided. Now I am sitting in the studio of KOOP radio, where I’ll be on the air briefly to answer some questions about my walk. On the wall is posted “The 40 Best Little Radio Stations in the U.S.” and just below it, “NO FOOD OR DRINK ALLOWED IN THE STUDIO. NO EXCEPTIONS.” Through the tinted window I see the lips moving to match the voice that’s broadcasting, only with a slight delay.
Here we are in the studio, just after recording Bringing Light into Darkness, a great source for independent world news; the show comes on at 6pm Mondays on KOOP radio 91.7. If you are interested in learning more about this indy media gem, here’s their website! http://www.koop.org/
You can listen to the show, which features news on recent events in Ecuador, and which includes my brief stint, here! http://lonestarman.net/stuff/BLD_10-4-10.mp3
When I arrived at the “treehouse” from Couchsurfing it was unclear whether I was expected or not. As I tried to log-on to my email to prove my identity to the unconvinced German guy on the porch, the wifi keyword “the cats did it” gave me the reassurance that this place would be fun. I ended up being placed in the upstairs portion of the house, which functioned kind of as a separate household, accounting for the fact that nobody downstairs was expecting my arrival.
Eva and Sam were the first I met upstairs, and immediately they offered me some stuffed zucchini. I liked them right away! They also offered to take me out and about to tour Austin the next day, and this I also gratefully accepted.
10/05/10
“Dear Sasha:
What day is it? I’m a little groggy after listening to the DVD loop of the L word because somebody left it on all night; I venture outside to find that Austin is so big and empty without you, honey. You are the sound that makes silence unbearable.”
Good thing there’s a coffee shop nearby…
After my morning coffee shop romp I was fully ready to enjoy a beautifully sunny day with Sam and Eva. The obvious choice was to spend as much of the day as possible outside, which we did by walking around Town Lake.
The turtles were all sitting on a pad of muck, sunbathing, which is gross, but somehow they make it cute.
And the skippers (not butterflies!) were hanging out on the Greg’s Mist, or at least that’s what I’m told it’s called.
The longer we looked at the water, the more tempting it became, and after awhile we couldn’t resist jumping in.
The girls were initially skeptical about the temperature of the water, but once we got in, I think they’d agree, it was the best idea we’d had all day.
10/07/10
There is something about good weather that makes being alive even more pleasant than it usually is. The grackles in the bushes implore of me some snacks, and the universe says come and play!
The initial feelings of loneliness upon Sasha’s departure have faded into the contentment of long ponderings and excitement for our next visit. It’s hard to believe that a long distance engagement could work, but we have reached the understanding that anybody who has to endure separation from their loved one must reach. There is no room for sadness; if you really love somebody, then they are always with you, present in all the beautiful things you see. The days pass a little more slowly, true. But they are still good.
Chism came to visit, and it helped to dispel the loneliness a little more. Our plan was to stay up all night, since he had to leave in the morning, and had only just arrived at about 9. This, of course, did not happen. I made a valiant effort, but had to turn in around 2, after coffee shop hopping in the late hours and a failed attempt at dumpster diving. Thank you for coming, my friend. We will steal the blinking lights bar sign and ride our bicycles into the midnight hour, our blinking lights bar sign overhead like a halo. Follow us to the bar, the arrow will point the way! Even if nobody else understands what it all means.
10/08/10
Today was Eva’s birthday, and I hope that for her 24 is what it was for me—the best year of my life. But so far 25 has brought its fair share of wonder and amazement too. The first half of my walk took place, Sasha and I fell in love and became engaged, I reconnected with my Dad, and the crazy bus trip and summer of traveling…I’d say it’s been a productive 4 months of 25. So today, since Eva was out with family, I met up with Daniel, my couchsurfing host in Santa Monica right before beginning the walk. It’s apparent by the vast catalog of experiences from our travels in the meantime, but is otherwise unbelievable that 8 months have passed. From being mugged in Syria and laughing it off to getting stuck in Jordan for several weeks, it seems to me Daniel really had a life-changing experience backpacking through the Middle East. He had a lot of good times too, of course, though I think those mentioned were the most interesting. We reminisced our days in Santa Monica over a red velvet cupcake, much like those I dumpstered from Whole Foods there.
I left with plans to meet the girls in Bastrop to go camping, and with that I walked down the street, away from the tree-house that was home for nearly a week. Austin was very different from what I expected, though I’m not disappointed. I definitely don’t see why people would flock here from San Francisco and Portland, because I would much rather live in one of them, but I would certainly come back and visit for an extended time if the opportunity showed itself. If for only one thing, it would be for the fantastic people I now know are here. Thank you all for a wonderful week of living.There are more photos here: http://picasaweb.google.com/FakePlasticShay and here: (most recent) http://cid-d97b248810ba5cf6.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/New%20album
The blog, which is just a running accumulation of these emails and journalings, is here: http://fakeplasticshay.blogspot.com/
Slow down. Live simply. Seek Wonder.
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So! Onward! I am an adventure traveler. I am not a tourist seeking a distraction from my discomforts and worries. I am a lover of life seeking to submerge myself in the world outside myself. The nature and quality of my experience are based on some questions: -What do I want from the road? -Why will I travel? I want to see amazing things I want to meet amazing people I want to do a lot of walking I want freedom I want stories I want to see and try new things I want all of these things at the expense of taking risks and encountering uncertainty. _____________________________________________________________________
These travels are neither for fundraiser nor for personal profit. I seek to live as minimally as possible while traveling, and in life in general. However, I rely primarily on the kindness of others, and the faith that everything I need I will always find in one way or another. The infinite graciousness of others has kept me moving forward, day by day. Any help along the way is monumentally appreciated, as food and shelter are of the utmost uncertainty on this trip. If you would like to make a small contribution for food you may do so by clicking here:
https://cms.paypal.com/us/cgi-bin/?cmd=_render-content&content_ID=marketing_us/send_money
click the "personal" tab, send it to Fakeplasticshay@gmail.com, specify your own amount as a gift, and help me get one day and one city further! As always, anything helps and is so very much appreciated!
If you'd like to send a letter of support, please contact me for location specifics for general delivery. Thank you all so much! Love, Shay
