Wednesday, April 2, 2025

The World Through the Eyes of a Hammock-dweller

6/3/10-6/18/10

Two weeks in Tucson

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The World Through the Eyes of a Hammock-dweller

6/3/10
Summertime is here, bringing with it unfathomable heat. So begins my sabbatical from walking until September, or whenever it drops below 90 degrees. In the meantime, I'll be joining the journal for their cross-country speaking tour. From June 17th to the end of July, we'll travel on a veggie-powered schoolbus, working and speaking at forums, collectives, and events. The journal house, which is home to the now 2 person collective, will be my dwelling-place for the next couple of weeks, until we embark on our grand journey. Today, I begin my summer life as a time-killer, a home-dweller, a perpetual weekender. I'm looking forward to this opportunity to catch up on some reading, writing, who knows, maybe some art work! For the next couple of weeks, my life will be a lot more like those of the "normal" people I keep hearing about.
I look most forward to the lazy days with Bootlyg, my favorite dog.
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6/9/10 I'd been clinging to the final moments of 24, the year of my life most filled with amazement and unbelievable experiences. But midnight brought an end to all that; surrounded by loved ones, surprisingly enough, my birthday rolled in with hugs, kisses, and other people drinking whiskey. My cousin, Jessica, and her girlfriend came for a spur-of-the-moment visit, largely inspired by a need for closeness after a recent family death. Last week we lost an aunt, and neither of us had been able to get home for the funeral. In a futile attempt to send my condolences over the vague waves of the internet, this is what I wrote to my family:
Good morning, family. I have just heard the news about Tia Flora. I am filled with an immeasurable sadness this morning as I think of Tia Flora being gone, and of the pain you are all undergoing right now. I know that death brings a measure of relief as the end of worldly suffering, and this makes us happy for those who part with us to enjoy the leaving behind of burdens. I look back on the many years of family gatherings, many of them in her home, and I am reminded of all the love we have shared together. Tia Flora was so kind and accepting a person. Her smile extended to all, always, family, friends, and visitors alike. At times it seemed like you could see her glowing before you even got inside. Though I didn't spend much time with her in adult life, the times I did share with her are a treasure in my heart. As a big family, we have endured much loss together; I sincerely wish that I could have been there for you all in person. Had I known sooner, I would have come to be with you. But as things are, I send my love from afar, hoping that my compassion will reach you and fill you up. I love you all, and I share this loss with you completely.
Love, Shay
As a large family we experience a lot of loss--I have been to dozens upon dozens of funerals in my lifetime--but the hardest part, and half of the hurt, is not being there. Trying to send your hugs and kisses through email is not quite the same.
In any case, a good visit came of it. Jessica and I woke up super early and were out and about well before 6. We had a nice long walk around town and got some coffee before returning home to collect our counterparts. The refrigerator has been on the fritz this week, a likely episode after the recent bathroom explosion, so we had to throw out most of our food. Luckily, however, we found two pizzas in the dumpster (again!) and breakfast was easy. We spent the day with more walking around, since Tucson is such a great city to spend all day walking around. On our way to get some beers and food for the house, we saw some enormous balloons and I decided I wanted them. Jessica decided that I should have anything I want on my special day-- and at any cost-- and engaged in this crazy split-second U-turn at 30mph so that we could steal them. Amber pulled out a knife, jumped out of the car, freed them, and then attempted to sit back down only to find that she was pitifully far from fitting inside the vehicle. I quickly pulled out my own knife, stabbed two of the balloons, frightening everyone in the car, and pulled them back inside. We were gone in a matter of seconds. I eventually popped one of the remaining two by getting it caught in the fan inside the house, and immediately after lost the last one while trying to get my sunglasses on. GEDC0624.JPG?psid=1 GEDC0627.JPG?psid=1
The ladies suggested we grab some dinner at an Italian restaurant far fancier than anything I've seen in the past year, and I readily agreed. A birthday dinner, they insisted.GEDC0589.JPG?psid=1GEDC0592.JPG?psid=1
So happy to hang out with Jessica, I hope that I have sparked some spontaneity in her since the Christmas I convinced her to leave our family Christmas party to go for a late night skinny dip in the ocean. I think this last minute road trip qualifies.
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Without the usual limitations of "whatever I find in the dumpster," I had a hard time of choosing between the many intriguing prospects. I eventually settled, excitedly, on a vegetarian manicotti with breaded eggplant and marinara sauce.
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6/10/10 It's not my birthday anymore! The day brought much love and excitement, as well as beer and cake. After much shuffling about, I'm settling at the desk, contemplating the myriad ways I can be lazy today. We leave for our crazy road trip in a week, and I can't believe a week has already gone by in Tucson. Though I'm thoroughly excited for a new adventure, I'm a little sad about leaving my little haven in the desert. There have been so many people at the house the past few days, creating a forum for interesting conversation, but also requiring space and time. It's been so great having everybody around, but now that the house is relatively empty, Sasha and I have some alone time again. We had planned an at-home-date for my birthday, which then got postponed until tonight, and yet again when a hitch-hiking guest stayed another night. The strain on both of us, added to the daily pressure of working all day for Sasha and the recent death of my aunt for me, has become apparent, and in an effort to escape we went on an evening walk. The air was perfect with the sun just down, but we were restless and taxed. By the end of the evening we were enjoying ourselves, though. Overall, a better end to the day than the day itself. 6/13/10 The excitement mounts as day by day the road trip approaches. I've been doing odd jobs at the journal, helping with the mailing list, sorting food donations, etc. They've even made me feel useful in the editing department, which I really enjoy. Below, Sasha is working hard... on... something... probably... GEDC0602.JPG?psid=1 I was hoping to get my hands on some volunteer work while in town, but aside from the journal and Food not Bombs, I haven't. I've been lazy, and I think a week of beer, coffee, and sex have incited my kidneys to protest. GEDC0649.JPG?psid=1 This, taken from my journal, is what I imagine they look like as they angrily punch my other organs. I've resorted to standing over the toilet, naked and with a book, in hopes that a little pee will come out every so often. Clothing and toilet paper have become brutally tedious. Sasha and I finally had the sushi night we'd been planning and postponing due to visitors and dysfunctional kitchenry. It was so fun that we recreated the experience last night. We slept in the back yard last night because it was so warm, and I somehow managed to sleep until 8 or something. I didn't do Food not Bombs today because I felt a little melancholy. There was, however, a birthday party for our friend Juila, who invited us to cake and beer (just what the doctor ordered...) in her kiddie pool in celebration of our birthdays as well. GEDC0655.JPG?psid=1 6/14/10 The morning greeted me with a sky of spectacular hue, such as only the most insane of us are awake early enough to behold. The sweet smell of the desert dirt beneath me redeems it of the piercing rocks it harbors. A single morning dove perched on a line in the yard cooed a sweet good morning, over and over again. The one beer I had last night was not a good idea, after all. Not that I hadn't suspected this beforehand. Oh well! It didn't stop me from a morning walk, during which time we found an injured dove hobbling around near the curb. It appeared to have at least one broken wing, and most of its tail had been pulled out, probably by a cat. I was compelled to take it home, out of the sun and out of its constant fear and danger on the side of the road. After all, if we didn't save injured morning doves we encountered, they might not be there to wish us a good morning.
GEDC0657.JPG?psid=1 We tried to obtain a vehicle to take the bird to the emergency vet, but we were unsuccessful; despite my best efforts to make the bird comfortable, it died within a couple hours of relative peace. I hope, at the least, that it felt some of the love and compassion that I felt. We had a burial in the back yard, sad to tarnish its soft, delicate, and still warm body with dust and rocks. Someday, this fate will be for each of us. Let it be known, I would rather be pushed away to sea on a funeral pyre, without the usual sadness and ado. I'd like not to think of myself any more important than a bird. 6/15/10 The children next door are rabid and incessantly scream. We are the background noise in our dining room, and we are planning the logistics of our road trip. So far, this is the itinerary: Albuquerque Taos Durango Lawrence St. Louis Chicago Cleveland Buffalo Albany Portland, ME Boston New York Philadelphia Pittsburgh Columbus (?) Chicago Milwaukee Madison Minneapolis Missoula Portland, OR Then I'll part ways with the bus, hang out in Portland and San Francisco for a while, making my way slowly down the coast before heading back to Texas to complete my walk. There's a lot to do before we leave. Tomorrow we'll have a going away dinner at the journal with all our friends. (I have friends!!) 6/17/10
Day one of Epic Road Trip
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Goodbye, home.
I don't know what time it is, but the sun's gone down and we're quite shy of our anticipated evening arrival in Albuquerque. To be more accurate, we've moved about 20 miles since we tentatively rolled out of Tucson at 5. Having long abandoned the hope of a before noon departure, I braced myself for an evening counterpart to match the long day. It took hours to unload accumulated unnecessaries and replace them with crates full of journals, ample food for 5, and more books than we could possibly read with all we'll be doing. GEDC0793.JPG?psid=1 GEDC0794.JPG?psid=1 GEDC0797.JPG?psid=1 And most of what we've been doing so far has been dealing with the complications of biodiesel. All of the veggie bus trips I've taken have been riddled with mishap and exasperation, and this, so far, has been no exception. Somehow we mixed up the valves so that the diesel overflowed into the veggie tank, which subsequently overflowed. We pulled over to assess the situation, and in so doing attracted the attention of a highway patrol. he asked if we were alright, and nothing more. I am still astounded that the sight of our huge psychedelic bus spewing oil, 4 of the 5 of us all-black-clad, me without pants and Charles with his head of maniacal dreds, didn't spark further curiosity, and that he saw no need to ask for registration or anything else. My take is, "don't question it, just be thankful." When we were speeding down the road again, the most exhilarating breeze swept across my body, repelling the heat from a sun whose shadows danced through billowing gypsy curtains. As I looked around the bus, my lover lying beside me, book in nose, my new and nomadic friends lounging about, my life seemed perfect. Where else would I be right now? Nowhere else. Onward! Love, always, Shay
The blog, which is just a running accumulation of these emails and journalings, is here: http://fakeplasticshay.blogspot.com/
Slow down. Live simply. Seek Wonder.
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So! Onward! I am an adventure traveler. I am not a tourist seeking a distraction from my discomforts and worries. I am a lover of life seeking to submerge myself in the world outside myself. The nature and quality of my experience are based on some questions: -What do I want from the road? -Why will I travel? I want to see amazing things I want to meet amazing people I want to do a lot of walking I want freedom I want stories I want to see and try new things I want all of these things at the expense of taking risks and encountering uncertainty. _____________________________________________________________________
These travels are neither for fundraiser nor for personal profit. I seek to live as minimally as possible while traveling, and in life in general. However, I rely primarily on the kindness of others, and the faith that everything I need I will always find in one way or another. The infinite graciousness of others has kept me moving forward, day by day. Any help along the way is monumentally appreciated, as food and shelter are of the utmost uncertainty on this trip. If you would like to make a small contribution for food you may do so by clicking here:
click the "personal" tab, send it to Fakeplasticshay@gmail.com, specify your own amount as a gift, and help me get one day and one city further! As always, anything helps and is so very much appreciated!
If you'd like to send a letter of support, please contact me for location specifics for general delivery. Thank you all so much! Love, Shay

Friday, March 28, 2025

Go forth, pilgrim, the open road beckons...

02/08/10-02/20/10
San Luis Obispo to Santa Barbara to Los Angeles to Santa Monica....Whew!
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Picking up where we left off...after the best camping trip ever, hitched from Big Sur. Didn't take very long to get a ride, seeing as how Big Sur is just generally filled with nice folks!
The people who gave me a ride were fellow travelers, kind souls, and they even took me a few extra miles just to ensure that I got where I needed to be, safely. The world abounds with good people, and ever am I grateful to them for their kindness. My first stop in SLO was Thai Classic, where I found my good friend, Lek. She's always the first to know when I'm in town. She so graciously provided me lunch, and I have to say that even after curry in almost every state, this is still the best. :) This was a pretty short portion of my trip. Stayed with my friends, David, Zeb and Anthony, woke up, went to Linnaea's, met up with my friend Michael,
(this is him)
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and we decided to skip town.
We took a bus to Santa Maria, having no idea if we'd even be able to get to Santa Barbara from there. We didn't really care. San Luis had lost its charm, in reality many years ago, for both of us. As it turned out, there really was no way to get to SB except the greyhound, and hitching here was indeed a dire prospect. The greyhound station itself, as was expected, was a bit scary. But we managed. I fell asleep on the bus and upon arriving we immediately got coffee, because we considered just walking around all night. We decided, though, to stay at the hostel, because Michael had never been to one before. The rain found me again. I left Portland, partly because of being tired of the month long saturation I endured, only for it follow me everywhere. I was really excited so I didn't sleep a whole lot. We quickly met some awesome travelers and they offered me a ride to LA. Michael and I left the hostel at about 9:30 and it was already pouring. Not what we were expecting for our getaway, but. What can you do! Enjoy the day!
we had cupcakes!
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And saw the mission!
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And downtown!
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There's an electric buzz in the air, and garbage everywhere. The "river" actually has water in it right now, because of all the rain, and it rushes by, brown and full of shit. Can you guess where I am? I guess I already said I was going to L.A. I was lucky enough to join the lesbian convoy from Santa Barbara on down, and got into the city in good time. I really wasn't in a rush to get there, but I was excited to see Jeremy, an old friend from SLO. yay! Jeremy!
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One very happy sparrow woke me up the couple days I stayed at his place. I fully utilized the back balcony that hung from my room with a leisurely breakfast and a long sit thinking of nothing in particular. If only day could be so perfect. Oh. It is!
the lights are on in the daytime!
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Grafitti!
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A nice hike into the hills brought me to this view of the city
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Kitty!
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One last breakfast on the balcony, and I began my first day of the trek. This was technically backtracking, as I went from L.A. to Santa Monica, the opposite direction of our ultimate destination. I hit the road and started walking, walking, walking, walking.....Until I got to Santa Monica!
On the way, I saw a great many people and things, naturally. It was about a 16 mile walk, and beautiful weather. not to mention,
Scientology!!
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Passed through Beverly Hills as well. Lots of strange stares my way passing through here. Probably because I'm a hobo.
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And this grove of cacti and strange trees.
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Then I got there! And had my first glimpse of the beautiful Pacific in 6 months. For me, having grownup on the Westest of the West Coast, that was a LONG time.
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I spent quite a number of days in Santa Monica, far longer than I anticipated. I find myself putting off writing each day I don't move forward. I hate to say I'm uninspired, because, as George points out, inspiration comes from within. I half believe this, as there's a clear and distinct discrepancy between the feelings within me and those who are, well, inspired, by the profundity I perceive in San Francisco. Nonetheless, there have been sparkling moments that have stirred my restless soul to wonder. Just the other afternoon, in fact, I started reading "The Art of Pilgrimage," whose title is pretty self explanatory. I find in myself a calling to pursue experiences of whose merit I often find difficult to make concrete to others. For the most part I am met with encouragement for my undertakings, and only rarely with snide amusement or bewilderment. Anyhow, to read a perfect articulation of thoughts I've long harbored undeciphered is reminder to go forward with senses open to the joys of the day. Wake up, Shay, and see the things you picked up and left to see!
Lying on the beach, I was graced by the universe to see the bellies of a hundred ladybugs as they hovered above my sand-speckled body, on some unknown pilgrimage themselves. In that moment, as the land's end brought forth thoughts of the end of things, life had, again, just begun. Look, I found parrots!
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And downtown, I found good coffee and this awesome mural
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I was met with the most beautiful sunset I've seen in far too long.
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I finally met up with George, my partner in crime, or rather, walking across the whole damn country. For now, this is all the introduction you're going to get, because I'm tired. But. After I've gotten a chance to get to know him better, I'll write more. For now, though, he's awesome!
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Over the last few days I've had the opportunity to connect with several worthwhile people, admittedly after much digging. The first two, couchsurfing hosts, were just lucky finds. Joshua struck me as a particularly cool dude when he responded to my request with "I love veggies, I'm a vegan!" And it struck me as even cooler when he cooked up some stir-fry for us. Over the next couple of days I caught up on the intellectual stimulation that solo travel sometimes stifles. Dan, my initial prospect for couchsurfing, invited me to a gathering with his friends and I thoroughly jogged the memory of my inspiration and purpose during these travels. Having good people flock in interest with good questions surely rekindles the ambitions to get moving! Amidst the usual logistical inquiries, "why are you doing this?" snags my attention, reminding me it's been awhile I've asked this of myself....More on that later...
Dan ended up hosting me Sunday night, since George got in rather late. If this gives you any indication of how nice he is (in addition to the fact that he hosted me on rather short notice) he bought me fake chicken nuggets after my raving about how good they are and how I'd been trying all day to resist my craving. He was compelled by my excitement over them. Little things like that make my day.
A couple nights before we took off, I had an epic night of dumpster diving with a newfound friend, Kat. Since we had all the time in the world on our hands and nowhere in the world to be, we prowled the streets, hungry for garbage. After a discouraging 4 or so dumpsters, and feeling quite dejected, we hit the jackpot of cupcakes at Whole Foods. Seriously, who throws away 100 cupcakes AND a tub of frosting? Sleep deprivation and sugar high delirium prompted a sidewalk sit, and inspired many a night-lurking stranger to inquire about our happenstance. We shared our cupcakes and our stories, but the "chips" dance remained an inside joke. And I guess it still does...
It was definitely time to go when it was time to go.
So we left. Walking walking walking.....
More on that also, later.
Love, Shay

There are more photos here: http://picasaweb.google.com/FakePlasticShay The blog, which is just a running accumulation of these emails and journalings, is here: http://fakeplasticshay.blogspot.com/ _____________________________________________________________________________________ I am not traveling for profit. I seek to live as minimally as possible while traveling, and in life in general. However, any help along the way is appreciated, as food and shelter are of the utmost uncertainty on this trip. if you would like to make a small contribution for food you may do so by clicking here: https://cms.paypal.com/us/cgi-bin/?cmd=_render-content&content_ID=marketing_us/send_money click the "personal" tab, send it to Fakeplasticshay@gmail.com, specify your own amount as a gift, and help me get one day and one city further! As always, anything helps and is so very much appreciated! ___________________________________________________________________________ So! Onward! I am an adventure traveler. I am not a tourist seeking a distraction from my discomforts and worries. I am a lover of life seeking to submerge myself in the world outside myself. The nature and quality of my experience are based on some questions: -What do I want from the road? -Why will I travel? I want to see amazing things I want to meet amazing people I want to do a lot of walking I want freedom I want stories I want to see and try new things And I want all of these things at the expense of taking risks and encountering uncertainty.
Love, Shay

Sunday, January 29, 2023

Texas: It's bigger than France...

5/8/10-5/18/10 El Paso to Van Horn GEDC0432.JPG Texas: It's bigger than France
5/8/10 When I woke this morning in the comfort of Jovanna's home, I just knew it was going to be a glorious day. The sun was not yet up when we got to the cafe for her to begin a day of baking. "While my Guitar Gently Weeps" started to play, giving us the chance to discover our bond of George Harrison fanaticism. With blood on fire I began to explore the gift shop. Across the room, Jovanna says "I know what to put on!" and a moment later, as I look out the window at the beautiful morning, I hear the first chords of "Fake Plastic Trees," my psuedonym-sake, for those of you who didn't know the origin or significance of Fake Plastic Shay. My soul stirred violently, and butterflies rushed to fill my empty spaces, much the way it felt the very first time I heard the song. Empty and lonely and wonderful.
The song, according to Radiohead lead singer Thom Yorke, is "the product of a joke that wasn’t really a joke, a very lonely, drunken evening and, well, a breakdown of sorts" Her green plastic watering can
For her fake Chinese rubber plant
In the fake plastic earth
That she bought from a rubber man
In a town full of rubber plans
To get rid of itself
It wears her out, it wears her out
It wears her out, it wears her out

She lives with a broken man
A cracked polystyrene man
Who just crumbles and burns
He used to do surgery
For girls in the eighties
But gravity always wins
And it wears him out, it wears him out
It wears him out, it wears...

She looks like the real thing
She tastes like the real thing
My fake plastic love
But I can't help the feeling
I could blow through the ceiling
If I just turn and run
And it wears me out, it wears me out
It wears me out, it wears me out

If I could be who you wanted
If I could be who you wanted
All the time, all the time Poring over shelves of trinkets I cam across the Laurel Birch line I'd forgotten about for several years, though they'd graced the shelves of my mother's own collection my whole life. There was even a scarf. Memories of so many years breezed by without order, too fast to hold onto, and my eyes began to betray my emotions, small burning tear after another. So many things, too many to hold onto. I remember the scarf I loved so dearly, a badge of her illness that I so painfully lost this Fall. So many things. The moment lasted forever... But then it ended. The room came back into view and the voices of people working were once again in the background. I felt so alive and human and full of feeling as I hugged Jovanna goodbye, because it was seven and time to carry on. I went to collect Marjorie (the girl who stopped when I was lost) and her boyfriend, and they were up and ready to go. They joined me for about 4 miles, a regretfully short time for such good company. When we parted ways, miles went by on an uncomfortably busy back road before green fields lured me into a little community. A lady just getting home called me over to offer me a sandwich. Her name was Maria. She let me in and started a pot of coffee. She gave me chips and her home-made salsa, which I can't say rivals grandma's (because that would be blasphemy) but I can say it was remarkably good. I was grateful for the food, but more so for her opening her home in love and trust. About 5 miles down the road, two guys in a big truck pulled over and handed me a Gatorade, one of them yelling "Never give up!!" I said "ok." As they sped off, he yelled again, louder, "Never give up!!" I enthusiastically threw my fists up high in the air, and with all my might screamed "OK!!" I had a smile on my face for at least the next hour. Next, a boy on a motorcycle stopped, after passing by a couple times. He lived nearby so I stopped to fill up on water at his house, and he then walked with me until just shy of Anthony, at the state line. Such a good day for company and conversation! I passed a house having a child's birthday party. They had ponies! I stopped to say hi to them, and a kind host handed me a heaping plate of food. GEDC0204.JPG GEDC0205.JPG A passing car stopped to offer me prayer, and the driver handed me a slip of paper with the address of a place I could get a meal. I almost didn't go, mostly because I had just gotten the dinner thing taken care of, not knowing the profound impact the people there would have on me. On my way in that direction, I crossed into Texas, beginning a new chapter of my journey. GEDC0207.JPG All alone I leaped into the air, squealing and flailing. Passers-by stared in bewilderment as I unabashedly celebrated my private joy. Following destiny via the directions on the aforementioned slip of paper I arrived at the Baha'i information center, totally unsure what to expect. GEDC0218.JPG Would I again be forced to patronize a belief system of somebody else's preference in order to participate in this community? Who knew what awaited behind the glass-paneled wooden door that separated me and these unknown Baha'is. I knocked on the door, it opened, and I was greeted with such a warmth as would only be shown to an expected guest. Katherine, who opened the door, invited me in, and an enthusiastic welcome rose from the room of people behind her. I felt immediately at home, surrounded by this unlikely group, in a living room enshrined in art, with ample, comfortable seating, and pleasantly devoid of electronics.
GEDC0212.JPG An unusual brick fireplace with built-in shelves lent its charm and the smell of hearty food floated in from the kitchen. GEDC0215.JPG

GEDC0214.JPG I sat down and we all communed over some of the best coffee I'd ever had. They shared with me their faith in a most unassuming way. Though I cannot say I'll ever define myself by the parameters of any concrete ideology, I found that their ideas mesh well with mine in many ways. What is most important to them, and to me, is not the name of the faith. Any good Christian, Muslim, Jew, etc. will live by a fundamental principle that all of their faiths share: Love everybody, with all of your heart, and in all of your actions. It doesn't make sense to kill each other over the particulars--would it please your God, or whatever name you have for it? Probably not. Just love. It's not that hard. So these Baha'is, they're not so outrageous. They offered me a nice couch to sleep on, and as I ended my day here, I reflected on what a glorious day it had been, after all. 5/9/10 I left Anthony early, but the road brought many distractions, and the hours, slow progress. Knowing full well that a noontime break was not in order with 16 miles ahead, I decided... to take a break. GEDC0222.JPG There was this junk shop, as the proprietors themselves saw fit to call it. I explored the grounds, appropriately guarded by dinosaurs, and basking in the quite unexpected and equally opportune sprinklers before heading out again. GEDC0236.JPG GEDC0241.JPG Canutillo, a true to definition border town, with local shops of bright colors and outdated signs. Still hours away from the heart of the city, I entered El Paso city limits. GEDC0237.JPG

About 6 miles before I was to arrive downtown, a guy in a truck pulled off to the side and asked, "Are you really walking across America?"I said I was.He said, "That's crazy... Well...do you want to get something to eat?" With that, he moved his dog from the front seat, I got in, and we were on our way to a magnificent lunch at a Mediterranean place. And so began my adventure with Albert, a young man who had left behind a family legacy of engineering to pursue a degree in philosophy. He was dressed in all black, had a liking for metal, and was a refreshingly apt conversationalist. Being an avid appreciator of good beer and a brewer himself, in fact, Albert captured my attention with discussion about the finer things in life. As much as my determination to make it downtown blared in my mind, revelations about Albert's hobbies, musical interestes, and life perspectives led me to believe I'd regret not reveling in his awesome company for longer. So I let myself be shown around a bit, taking advantage of El Paso's greatest vantage points, and abandoning the idea of walking more today. GEDC0250.JPG GEDC0252.JPG GEDC0249.JPG I joined him for a trip to the store to handpick a few of the finest beers El Paso had to offer. Back at his house, a few more friends came to join, and I enjoyed an evening more like my real life than any other since I'd left Portland in January.

GEDC0273.JPG 5/10/10 I woke later than usual, having slept inside. I was planning on walking alone today, but got Brent to walk with me, as a result of my strategy to ask while he was intoxicated. He said "No, I have to work. What time should I meet you?" He showed up at about 7:40, with coffee and granola bars in hand. It goes to show, although I'm known as "the friend that will drop everything to go on that spontaneous 3,000 mile trip with a stranger on a workday," I'm equally often the stranger you'll ditch work to hang out with. It was only a couple hours' walk to downtown El Paso, so we had the whole day to sight-see. Miles of sprawl encompass the city in infinite pavement. You can't stop and pee whenever you please, and that's proof enough that pavement is not suitable for human beings. There are things worse than this, even, about pavement and the chaotic hurry it encourages. GEDC0400.JPG :( In a way, all the El Paso nay-saying that came out of New Mexico turned out to be a good thing; though the city doesn't require a low expectation to be enjoyable, I am sure that I appreciated my arrival much more after anticipating much less. Entering downtown, I walked into "Plaza De Los Lagartos" where fiberglass alligators greeted me amidst high-rise and historical buildings. The sun was shining, not too intensely, which was fortunate for me becauase I lost yet another pair of sunglasses. GEDC0276.JPG GEDC0278.JPG GEDC0279.JPG GEDC0331.JPG

It may surprise the reader, but in a way downtown El Paso reminds me of parts of the Magnificent Mile in Chicago, where different styles of architecture, from Gothic Cathedral to Bauhaus skyscraper, harmonize with the trees and the people. GEDC0285.JPG GEDC0333.JPG GEDC0337.JPG GEDC0341.JPG Every corner has relevance within the history of the Mexican Revolution. The Rio Grande serves as a natural border to Mexico, and its manmade counterpart, the new border wall, is stirring much controversy, and is of course less appealing to look at.

GEDC0258.JPG Fantastic pockets of unique culture remain, though in some cases development has altered, or completely eradicated, historic elements of the city. This particular pocket park is in a neighborhood that's been a focal point of redevelopment, now resembling the re-vamped meat-packing disctrict of Manhattan. I'm told, unfortunately, that largely the redevelopment aims at creating nightlife, but there's a lot of potential for artist lofts, coffee shops, and community space.

GEDC0304.JPG GEDC0306.JPG' GEDC0318.JPGGEDC0327.JPG' I've always said the worth of a city can be determined by how much public space is devoted to art. In this neighborhood, a not yet open coffee shows the promise of uniting locals. GEDC0313.JPG GEDC0315.JPG

More walking around... GEDC0329.JPG GEDC0339.JPG Another park-sit was well merited after all the walking around on this day off. Baby morning doves graced us with their presence as we relaxed our tired feet.GEDC0353.JPG Albert picked us up, dropped Brent off at his car, and we continued our discussion of music over a sunset at the river.

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5/11/10 Getting out of El Paso was just as lengthy an endeavor as getting in, as the pavement doesn't stop downtown. It's tentacles stretch another 20 miles and even then it's hard to tell where the city "ends." GEDC0373.JPG GEDC0375.JPG Graffiti, Interstate, Nowhere. 5/12/10 GEDC0401.JPG GEDC0416.JPG Harvesting tumbleweed from nearby shrubs, I ended the day covering the entrances to a piney bungalow and settling to read the last article in my science magazine. The needles created a nice warm bed for me, a welcome comfort on a day that passed mostly without human contact. Except for the occasional "dammit" when a wayward thorn found my foot, I hadn't heard the sound of my own voice all day. There will be many days like this, alone, but not lonely. GEDC0042.JPG 5/13/10 Fabens, TX. GEDC0384.JPG GEDC0397.JPG I found a lake that turned out not to be a mirage, the first of real water in...who knows. Needless to say I ran over that hill like it was nothing and jumped in. GEDC0418.JPG GEDC0426.JPG I arrived in Ft. Hancock in the evening, ready to rest my weary head behind the police station. Apparently there were a lot of shootings and otherwise crazy trafficking stuff going on, so I decided this would be the best place to camp. I stopped by Angie's restaurant, where the locals go to hang out, and tonight was no different. One by one they poured in, asking all sorts of questions, and one by one leaving me with a donation to help me on my way. One man, after all the others, slipped some money in my hand, telling me to stay at the hotel across the street. I told him that, really, I had more than enough money (and I did!) But he insisted that I take it so I could enjoy a nice, warm shower, and a soft bed to sleep in. I don't usually stay in hotels, but it didn't seem honest to pocket the money and camp out anyway. So I enjoyed it, feeling unusually spoiled.

GEDC0433.JPGGEDC0434.JPG Me and "the" Angie! I took the opportunity to soak in a bath, which for me doubles as a laundry facility. My dress needed a good washing, as did my feet. I took a long time to stretch my muscles, catch up on my journal, and watch some news. I know, ew. I've been out of the loop. GEDC0428.JPG

This is my day to day: GEDC0440.JPG GEDC0454.JPG GEDC0458.JPG GEDC0464.JPG 5/15/10 Sierra Blanca, my hard earned place of rest, stretches out its barren hand a mile away from its heart, offering for an unbearable 20 minutes only the false promise of food or water. Even the recently-lively-looking gun and grocery store is void of human life. GEDC0467.JPGGEDC0470.JPG Where is everybody? Did they die of the plague? The girl at the gas station I finally found did not find amusement in this question. Shame, my first human all day and no sense of humor. But Delfina and her daughter at Michael's restaurant made up for this, and abundantly so. Politely as I could, I declined and offer to be adopted, but promised I would be back for breakfast, on them. Finding myself somehow with an uncomfortably ample 40 dollars, I decided to be ectravagant and stay in the only motel that looked open. Its lights were shining beacons in the sea of all things past, and long since, at that. GEDC0483.JPGGEDC0489.JPG 5/16/10 My attempt at breakfast went unrewarded-Michael's restaurant is an unusually popular spot at 6am. Although, really, it isn't that unusual that the only place serving breakfast for 20 miles would have all the breakfast-goers in it. I moped back to the room breakfastless, took a shower, and walked for 22 miles. On the way, I hit my 1,000 mile mark, though it wasn't as exciting as I thought it would be. I took a picture anyway, hoping I would be excited later. GEDC0501.JPG 5/17/10 On the way to Van Horn. GEDC0507.JPG GEDC0522.JPG Today I passed into the Central Time Zone! GEDC0526.JPG I was excited to wake up this morning, having inadvertantly fallen asleep on a woodrat's nest that looked like an innocent mess around a fallen yucca tree. Through the night, carefully harvested prickles lodged themselves into my flesh, infrequently enough to make moving dreadful, but often enough to make morning a treasured anticipation. After my short morning of 12 miles, which was actually quite long because of ceaseless incline and winding, I arrived in Van Horn. The fact that it didn't appear everyone was dead was welcome enough to the social animal in me. I meandered around town, taking advantage of the leisure time on my hands. And I was surprised to find, of all things, a coffee shop! I arrived at the Cornerstone just as they were closing shop, but I thought to myself, with this new oasis at my fingertips, that tomorrow would make a most excellent rest day.

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Before I left, though, I picked up a book from their book exchange, What is the What by Dave Eggers. Based on the life story of a Sudanese refugee, Valentino Achak Deng, this account of forced and desperate pilgrimage makes me feel my day's work is easy. The hardships I encounter are trifling compared to the dangers and deprivations faced by refugees. I went to sleep absorbed in gratitude for the conveniences afforded to the modern American traveler. I really do have it pretty easy compared to most. It's a welcome reality check I think we could all afford to face. 5/18/10 Taking a rest day turned out to be a most fruitful impulse. My new friends, wanting to take care of me, offered me the use of their laptop for the day so I could post my blog and upload some photos. Once again "adopted" by nice people, I felt I could almost stay in this town and hang out for a while...almost... More on Van Horn later. Love, always, Shay

The blog, which is just a running accumulation of these emails and journalings, is here:
http://fakeplasticshay.blogspot.com/

Slow down. Live simply. Seek Wonder.
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So! Onward!
I am an adventure traveler. I am not a tourist seeking a distraction from my discomforts and worries. I am a lover of life seeking to submerge myself in the world outside myself. The nature and quality of my experience are based on some questions:
-What do I want from the road?
-Why will I travel?
I want to see amazing things
I want to meet amazing people
I want to do a lot of walking
I want freedom
I want stories
I want to see and try new things
I want all of these things at the expense of taking risks and encountering uncertainty.
_____________________________________________________________________
These travels are neither for fundraiser nor for personal profit. I seek to live as minimally as possible while traveling, and in life in general. However, I rely primarily on the kindness of others, and the faith that everything I need I will always find in one way or another. The infinite graciousness of others has kept me moving forward, day by day. Any help along the way is monumentally appreciated, as food and shelter are of the utmost uncertainty on this trip. If you would like to make a small contribution for food you may do so by clicking here:
click the "personal" tab, send it to Fakeplasticshay@gmail.com,
specify your own amount as a gift, and help me get one day and one
city further!
As always, anything helps and is so very much appreciated!
If you'd like to send a letter of support, please contact me for location specifics for general delivery.
Thank you all so much!
Love, Shay
 

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